Need some imput on a good boat set up

[digger]

My dad is looking to buy a boat to hunt from need some info.All input appreceated.

[Don Miller]

1542 War Eagle boat with an Avery Quick-Set Blind. This is a very stable boat that with the right motor (Go-Devil 16hp) on low water can get you to where the ducks are. On high water, like this year, I run a 25hp Johnson.

[goosebruce]

Wow dude... What a loaded question....

Figger out where you're most likely to hunt.

The RIGHT boat depends on where you are going to hunt. Big water, mudflats, rivers, beaver dams, etc. How many folks do you normally hunt? Big goose spreads need more room to tote, yet some duck hunts 1 big bag of deeks will do.

A boat too big might make it tough to get somewhere you want to hunt. A boat too small might make it tough to get home.

A go devil will get you into shallow water you'll never get to in an outboard.
An outboard will give you range a go devil will never give you.

I've hunted in everything from a one man layout boat, to a 20 foot aluminum duck battleship... The condtions dictates what is the best boat.

Avery blinds suck most of the time. If you REALLY need it for the exact sitution, they are great. Most of the time a better option presents itself. I've got one on my boat but do everything in my power not to raise it up if at all possbile.

A mod-v is the only way to go in johnboats. Your kindeys will thank you.

As far as brands, go with war eagle if you want to impress folks at the ramp. Go with polarkraft or f&f if you want to impress yourself, and save some bucks.

Rivites suck. Go with an all welded boat. Dont care what a boat salesman tells you... Rivites eventually come loose and leak.

Wider is better, and the most horses you can put on the back is ideal. Duck hunting means loaded boats... More $#!+, more people, more deeks, more dogs, than you normally have when fishing. Max horsepower is key.

A tiller is WAY superior to a steering wheel when it comes time to naviagte shallow water, or pick up deeks. Saves room in a crowded duck boat bvy not having a consol too.

And don't even think of saving a 100 bucks on a aluminum prop. Stainless steel is the only way to go. The first prop you trash, or 2 repairs pays for the difference in stainless, and you never have to worry bout getting home after busting a stump. travis

[Haymaker]

I agree with just about everything goosebruce said, wider is better and the more hp you can put behind the boat the better. I would also look for a tiller handle over a remote steer to save room in the boat. About the largest tiller handle you can get, I believe, is 50 hp. I would get one with power trim if you start getting up in the 40 to 50 hp range, the motor starts to get heavy and is difficult to lift up into a shallow run position when you get into shallow water. I would not get a stainless steel prop however, if you hit something with a stainless prop the prop won't bend or break but you do have a good chance of tearing up the lower unit. If you hit something with an aluminum prop, you will bend the prop rather than damage the lower unit. You can buy two aluminum props for the price of one stainless, so keep an extra one in the boat. I just had to replace the motor on my boat and use a 40 hp to pust a 17 foot john boat and it is working out just fine. You also need to pay attention to what pitch prop you get to so that the motor you get will push your boat in the motors best operating rpm range.

Haymaker

[Nitro Mag]

I like an F and F 1760 with a 75 Yamaha. Just right for hunting the river. F&F boats are built as good or better than any and are cheaper.

[goosebruce]

Haymaker, not to argue, but I think thats a wives tale... I have torn up every kind of prop imaginable... from $700 bass boat props to $80 aluminum props. I have hit stumps, rocks, the bottom, steel barges, all kinda $#!+, you hame it, Ive hit it, and never once had a stainless prop tear anything up in my lower units of any of my outboards. I think if you hit something that hard, the prop giving isnt going to make any difference. I've hit stuff hard nuff to spin the hub out of a stainless prop, and not torn up a lower unit, so logic to me says a hub gives away at a higher point than alumin fins, but still not where it'll tear up a lower unit.

I always heard the same thing... but it didn't make sense once I noticed the prop shop had lots of stainless props beat the crap outta of getting fixed. If they were trashing lower units, itd been an insurance claim and a new prop. Its just not true.

Seems like every trip I hit 3 or 4 things that kill the motor they hit so hard. How much harder can you hit something than to kill the motor with no prop or lower unit damage? Sure if you hit a rock wall at 40 mph your gonna tear something up, but it'll be gear case not the output shaft thats trashed.

I will tell you what will trash a lower unit though. A 30 mile ride home with a beat up out of blance aluminum prop.

Saw a new merc 60 horse tiller 4 stroke this weekend. Sweeettttt.

Still not sold on 4 strokes on little motors, or on the baddest ass bass motors. But on mid horsepower motors, aint no question thats the poop man. Knowing that cat has twice the distance on the same fuel as my 2 stroke 40, is quieter, and will idle at 15 degrees makes me think... hmmmmmmmmmm... Course my boat don't get nuff use to even think of trading, if I didnt loan it out sometimes it never would run.

The japs have come a LONG way to making the second best outboards out there. Ya-mamas and hondas sure are sweet nowadays, espeically the honda 4 strokes. It still got to be black, at least on the inside, to be on my boat. They all break, and the merc/mariners are the cheapest and easiest to fix. travis

[no angel]

give me a call or email on what you want. i am an f and f dealer and they usually run about 1/2 of war eagle price and you can design the whole boat. we have a couple of boats in stock and have some on order. email me if you want to know some prices on whatever boat you think you want. we also have good pricing on motors also. we just sold 1654 semi-v with 40 hp merc, camo ,gun boxes ,storage ,vinyl covered floor and decks for about 7000.00 the price depends on you really because you can add or take away anything in the boat. let me know and i will atleast try to beat any price if possible.

[Wildfowler]

I've got one on my boat but do everything in my power not to raise it up if at all possbile.

I'll second that.

[GulfCoast]

I pretty much totally agree with goosebruce. Avery blinds are way over rated. I have a 15 Xpress with a console since I fish out of it all year. For duck hunting, you are much better off with a tiller. You can turn much sharper. Stainless props are the way to go. I have chopped through crab traps, oyster reefs, and taken chunks out of sunken shrimp boats and bridge rails with mine. No problems. When I trade my boat, I will get a 16 foot boat with a short shaft 30 horse 4 stroke and pods.

[Anatidae]

We've used a 1542 mod-V for 7 years..........if we had it to do over, we would have gotten a 1548, instead. You might not think 6" in width would make a difference but it does. We thought the 42" would be easier to hide........but it's not worth comprmising the extra comfort and room a 48" would give you....especially if you're gonna use it for fishing, too.

As far as blinds......I designed my own.....custom-fit to the boat. 'Uses Avery/Break-up mesh-backed nets, 2 conduit hoops (mounted on pivots)that fold flat on front and rear decks, and parachute cord. Put-up time is 2 minutes and stores easily for the highway. The pop-up blinds all look like floating hotels.......this one is low-profile......and cheap!

[digger]

I know should have been more precise,he won't use it much just when the water is bad high and I may bum some for fishing.It will be flat water use no big river's mostlyhauling gear and hunter's. I know it need's to be all weld about a 25hp motor preferably camo and stable,with good seat's he's older and heavy and would like to be as comfertable as you can get in a boat.

[digger]

Can I get a number for no angel.Looking probly for 14ft and wide with deep side's.

[gadwall2]

The mod-v or semi-v, as I call it is the only way to go. I have a 1546 Alumacraft all-weld with a Mercury 25ES on it. I duck hunt and crappie fish out of it. It is open in the middle, drop deck up, and large deck in back. The motor is tiller steer, but I need an extension so I won't have to sit so far back on the deck. I usually crappie fish alone, but duck hunt with 2 other guys, a dog, decoy bag, and a big dry box. We all fit in there very well. The boat is very stable. What Anat. said about the 6" is true. I bought the boat, motor, and trailer for $4000 last January. Everything was new. I got it from Ed's Marine in Jackson. I shopped over 20 stores in MS and AL until I found what I wanted at the price I was willing to pay.

Make sure you buy wisely. Don't buy a "name", buy the product.

[RobertM]

Does F and F boats have a website?

[southboundanddown]

no but call 662 398 7030 and talk to buck.